Harvesting Coffee Stories from Brazil: Journey to the Source

After a recent trip to Brazil, David Holt our COO, returned with fresh insights into the challenges and stories behind the beans that end up in our cups.

Over ten days and thousands of kilometers, Dave gained a new appreciation for the journey from crop to cup, offering a perspective that Australian coffee lovers rarely get to see.

This trip, organised alongside Bennetts coffee traders and other Australian coffee industry reps, took Dave through some of Brazil’s iconic coffee-growing regions. He visited farms of all scales—from massive cooperatives to small, family run operations—meeting the farmers who grow Merlo’s coffee along the way.

Exploring Brazil’s Coffee Heartland: A Journey Across Diverse Farms

“Usually, it’s our Q Graders and Head of Coffee who make these origin trips, but this time I got the chance to go, and it was a real eye-opener,” says Dave. “Seeing firsthand how these beans are produced added new layers to my understanding of the industry and gave me fresh insights to bring back to the team.”

Traveling over 2,000 kilometers, Dave saw farms of every type, from large-scale operations equipped with machinery to small farms where coffee cherries are still picked by hand. Brazil, as the world’s largest coffee producer, grows about a third of the world’s coffee beans, with around 300,000 farms spread across the country. Experiencing the sheer scale and diversity of Brazil’s coffee industry was a major takeaway for Dave.

“One cooperative we visited represents about 20,000 farmers and ships out 250 containers of coffee each day. The scale is mind-blowing,” he reflects.

The Impact of Climate on Brazil’s Coffee Supply Chain

While exploring the Brazilian coffee industry, Dave gained a deeper appreciation of the supply chain's first half—the journey that beans make before arriving at roasters like Merlo.

“In Australia, the focus tends to be on roasting and serving, but learning about the initial stages of the coffee journey adds so much value when explaining things like pricing and quality to our customers,” he says.

Armed with fresh stories, images, and data from Bennetts, the Merlo team is excited by what they’ve learned. Among these insights is the impact of climate change on Brazil's coffee farms. In recent years, extreme weather events—frost, drought, and unusually high temperatures—have caused major setbacks for farmers.

“In 2021, widespread frost hit Brazil’s coffee regions hard, and it takes time to recover. Many farms are still trying to regrow crops, and the ongoing dry spells have only made things harder,” Dave explains.

Quality Over Compromise: Sourcing Amid Global Challenges

These environmental challenges haven’t just reduced production—they’ve also affected coffee quality and driven up prices. And according to Dave, supply chain issues related to geopolitics only add to the complexity. Despite this, Merlo remains committed to sourcing the best beans.

“Market volatility is tough, and we’re constantly evaluating our options. Quality is non-negotiable, so we’re always cupping and trying coffees from new regions,” he says. “It feels like we’re putting in extra effort just to maintain the standard we’re known for.”

Cupping with a Champion: Discovering a New Bean of the Month

While in Brazil, Dave joined World Cup Tasters Champion Dionatan Almeida for a cupping session where he sampled over 20 micro-lots, selecting a standout coffee for Merlo’s Bean of the Month series.

“Tasting with a world champion was an incredible experience,” he recalls. “Our Bean of the Month series gives customers a chance to try specialty coffees scoring 85 and above, available for a limited time in-store, online, and through our wholesale partners.”

Though coffee blends are still the go-to choice for most Australians, Dave notes that single origins are gaining traction, especially with younger drinkers who enjoy the unique flavours these coffees offer.

“Coffee blends are our heritage and Merlo will always be rooted in the traditional, Italian-style espresso. However, single origins are definitely on the rise and connoisseurs are loving high-scoring specialty coffees in which they can explore a huge range of flavours,” he says. 

Brazilian coffees are a vital component in many of Merlo’s much-loved blends, yet David says the company has a global perspective when it comes to sourcing. Navigating the volatility of international coffee markets while maintaining their focus on quality and consistency, the team source from right across the growing belt to create coffees that appeal to Australian taste preferences. 

“Traditionally, Queensland coffee drinkers love that medium-dark roast that delivers chocolate and caramel flavours. Most of the coffee served here is prepared with milk, so those notes are a great match,” says Dave.

“Classic Italian espresso is at the core of our business but, as I mentioned, many of the under 35s are being more experimental and looking for complex flavours. That’s why our Bean of the Month series works so well.”

David and the team plan to visit more of the farms that supply their Queensland roastery in 2025 and continue their focus on education, so more coffee drinkers in Australia understand and appreciate the source of their morning ritual. “We source coffee from pretty much everywhere that grows it, even Australia. We can’t wait to share more of the stories from origin in the future,” he says.

Blog created from Bean Scene's 'Industry Insights' article - November 2024.